This small town west of the Allegheny Mountains boasts modern day conveniences amidst a remote and majestic outdoor setting.
From our Fall 2012 Issue
Written by Rachel Henderson
Photographed by Nikki Bowman
As you traverse the edge of Monongahela National Forest, following Route 219 into the lush terrain, you arrive in Marlinton, a town of about 1,000 people and the seat of Pocahontas County. The scenery is nothing short of majestic and this little pocket of civilization, set along the Greenbrier River and in an area otherwise remote, boasts a combination of phenomenal recreation with modern day comforts that satisfy thousands of travelers and outdoors enthusiasts every year.
Of course, this isn’t news for the people who call Marlinton home, a combination of families who have been there more than five or six generations and many who found themselves in Marlinton for one reason or another and never left. There is a constant influx of people moving in or traveling through, and townspeople work hard to make the outside world more aware of what they’ve got going on.
From Trains to Trails
“Marlinton has a very unique history,” says Gail Hyer, Pocahontas County Convention & Visitors Bureau (CVB) marketing specialist. “We like to say it’s the first settlement west of the Allegheny Mountains.” At the time, a treaty stated that Native Americans were to stay on the west side of the Alleghenies and white man on the east. But, as Gail puts it, “we just couldn’t do that. We stuck our heads over and saw how beautiful it was.” In 1749, Jacob Marlin and Stephen Sewell were the first non-natives to come into the Greenbrier Valley. The area became known as Marlin’s Bottom, and after the town was named county seat, as Marlinton.
An extremely remote area as late as the 1860s, only about six families were settled in Marlinton working the vast farmlands. By the 1870s, Pocahontas County’s timber had been discovered and sawmills were popping up along the Greenbrier River. “The men would cut timber in the late summer, haul the logs down to the riverbanks, and then in late winter and early spring, when the water was high, they’d run log drives down to the mills,” explains Bill McNeel, retired editor of The Pocahontas Times. By the turn of the century, the Chesapeake and Ohio (C&O) Railway was complete, and Bill says, “Marlinton developed virtually overnight.” With sawmills and the town’s C&O train depot right in the heart of town, and now on the National Register of Historic Places, Marlinton was the commercial hub of Pocahontas County.
In 1891, residents voted to move the county seat from Huntersville to Marlinton, and The Pocahontas Times, established in 1883, moved with it. Bill’s great-grandfather acquired the newspaper in 1892 and built and moved in 1901 into The Pocahontas Times print shop (also on the National Register of Historic Places and currently a gift shop and museum). The paper has been in Bill’s family ever since.
By the 1930s, Marlinton’s forests had been stripped clean and the timber business faltered. But a foundation for tourism was being laid with the work of the Civilian Conservation Corps, a public relief program established during the Great Depression, and the development of areas like Watoga State Park. By the 1970s, tourism was a mainstay in Pocahontas County, and today, the county and its seat are a burgeoning travel and recreation destination, offering everything from fishing, boating, hiking, and skiing to must-see stops like Snowshoe Mountain, Cass Scenic Railroad, Green Bank Telescope, and, of course, Greenbrier River Trail.
Nature’s Playground
Hikers, bikers, skiers, backpackers, and everyone in between hit the 78-mile long Greenbrier River Trail, accessible from downtown Marlinton, to take in the beauty of the Allegheny Mountains and follow the river as it winds along the edge of Monongahela National Forest and multiple state parks. Ranked by Backpacker Magazine as one of the top 10 hiking trails in the U.S. and most recently added to the Rails-to-Trails Conservancy Hall of Fame, the trail is one of the most well-known and loved rail trails in the country, offering ample opportunities for world-class fishing, as well as swimming, kayaking, canoeing, and horseback riding. “We are very proud of our trail,” Gail says. “A lot of what we do here in Marlinton is tied to recreation, and the Greenbrier River Trail is certainly at the center of our livelihood.”
And that’s just the trail. Within an hour’s drive, travelers can access Durbin & Greenbrier Valley Railroad, Beartown and Seneca state forests, the National Radio Astronomy Observatory, Falls of Hills Creek, Cranberry Glades, and Droop Mountain Battlefield. “I think sometimes people are afraid to jump off the interstate—and in order to get here, you have to do that,” says Sarah Shearer-Irvine, Marlinton native and CVB groups and events coordinator. “But for those who are brave enough to get off the beaten path, they don’t regret it.”
Cultural Hub
Marlinton is focused on preserving its Appalachian traditions and heritage. Molly Must captured much of that in a mural, unveiled in 2011 and prominently displayed on the side of a brick building as you cross the bridge into town. Part historical fiction, part poetry, Gibbs Kinderman, who helped organize the project, says, “Molly brought depth to this project.” A Pocahontas County native, the young muralist based her work on the town’s rich history, particularly the rise and fall of the timber industry as portrayed in a collection of stories called The Last Forest, written by G.D. McNeill, as well as poetry written by his daughter, West Virginia Poet Laureate Louise McNeill.
Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the Pocahontas County Opera House is a grand facility built by railroad tycoon J.G. Tilton in 1910. With a large stage and wraparound balcony, the three-story concrete structure was the second of its kind built in Marlinton and was, like its predecessor The Grand, a place for vaudeville acts, dramatic productions, and moving pictures. “The building is considered one of the first reinforced concrete structures in the state, if not the country. It was cutting-edge architecture for the time,” says Operations Manager Drew Tanner. After a short run of success, the building was sold and eventually fell into disrepair. “Several folks said to tear it down,” Drew says. “But thanks to a handful of dedicated people, funds were raised, the building was purchased, and a 15-year restoration effort brought the building back to its original glory.” On any given night, the opera house is filled with community or private events and dozens of shows each year featuring theatre and music, from bluegrass to jazz to string quartets. “We offer a real kaleidoscope, something for anyone’s musical taste,” Drew says.
Taste is something Marlinton is keen on, especially challenging people’s taste buds. Recognized more than once by the Travel Channel, Food Channel, Discovery Channel, and Rachael Ray, the annual West Virginia RoadKill Cook-off, part of the Autumn Harvest Festival every September, has been going on for about 16 years and is quite literally a once-in-a-lifetime chance to try such delicacies as Pothole Possum Stew and Smeared Hog with Groundhog Gravy. “They really do cook things that could be found on the road. But,” Gail reassures, “it has to be clean, healthy food inspected by the health department.” Teams compete for the $1,000 grand prize, and the number one stipulation is that the meat be something that could be hit by a car or truck. “The festival has received national acclaim, but we’ve always had it just to have fun,” says Gail. More fun takes place each July when downtown Marlinton shuts down for Pioneer Days, a weekend event featuring live music, crafts and art exhibits, fireworks, and tours.
The Calvin Price Appalachian Enrichment Series, Marlinton’s latest and greatest development, is also bringing people together. “We bring in some of the area’s most well-known people and share some of our most intimate and best-kept secrets with the public,” Gail says. From wild edibles to herbal tea traditions to traditional music, she says, “We’re very proud of our heritage, and we have no intentions of losing our traditions anytime soon.” Arts and crafts are further embraced at the 4th Avenue Gallery of Fine Art & Crafts, an art co-op operated by volunteer artists who, in return, get to showcase their work, everything from jewelry, woodworks, furniture, and paintings to music, pottery, candles, and herbs and teas. “Lots of art people move to the area for the beauty and quiet,” says Jane Beverage, local quilter and co-op volunteer. “But there is a lot of local talent, people who have been doing these crafts all their lives.”
Grab a Bite, Stay the Night
Rest, relaxation, and sustenance are essential elements of any place worth staying, and in small-town Marlinton, residents are proud of their restaurants that offer the gamut from healthy eats to greasy grub and comfort food. “The Dirtbean is the local gathering spot, with what we call ‘healthy food,’” Gail laughs. “And across the street from the Opera House, you have the Snak Shak with fried chicken and Angus burgers, so there’s really something to appease anybody’s palate.” Bike shop meets café meets coffee shop, the Dirtbean offers a bevy of smoothies and beverages with a full menu of sandwiches and creative salads made from as many local ingredients as possible. At the Snak Shak, the owners are mixing their histories in a building constructed in 1902 and decorated with mid-century legends, bringing in the best of the 1950s and ’60s. While the menu offers satisfying fare like the El Dorado Burger (don’t forget the onion rings), the Hawaiian Melt, and the Philly Cheesesteak Specialty Pizza, the real twist is the Tropical Sno, gourmet shaved ice well known around town. For the ultimate package deal, head down to the Greenbrier Grille and Lodge, perched on the riverbank downtown. A favorite among travelers for its lodging and dining combo, there are five cozy rooms upstairs, a restaurant serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and a large deck overlooking the Greenbrier River.
Though Marlinton is known for its place in railroad history, West Virginia is known for its role in the Civil War, and at Jerico Bed & Breakfast, not far from downtown, guests can choose between the main house and nine pre-Civil War log cabins. “The owner has traveled over the years and found old Civil War cabins. He disassembles them, brings them back to Marlinton, and then reassembles them with any necessary renovations. It’s interesting because each cabin has its own special history,” says Gail. Also just outside of town, Locust Hill Bed & Breakfast sits on 20 serene acres and offers three rooms, with all the modern amenities, or the option of staying in The Cabin, fully equipped and boasting two covered porches and a private outdoor hot tub. But if you’re hoping for something right in the heart of town, the Old Clark Inn is the place for you. This budget-friendly, casual establishment has been a place of lodging since Lucy Clark opened it as a boarding house in 1924. Today, Andrea Biondi and Nelson Hernandez, who happened upon Marlinton and were happy to stay, own and operate the B&B, which offers 14 rooms from hostel-like economy rooms to standard rooms with queen-sized beds and private baths. The couple took over in 2004, and Andrea says, “Everyone’s been wonderful from the very beginning. We had a lot of people who would just stop by and offer help—that small-town sense of community is one of the many things I love about Marlinton.” Just minutes from Marlinton’s best offerings, the inn’s keepers love all the traffic coming into the area—especially the motorcyclists. Nelson’s a biker and made sure the inn had all the necessary offerings—covered parking, a hose to wash your bike, air compressor to fill tires, cleaners and rags, side stand supports, and his own expertise. Andrea says, “He’ll spend time with riders over breakfast, with a map out, offering insight. It’s a huge advantage for our guests.”
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