Roll through the Southern Coalfields.

WRITTEN BY Nikki Bowman Mills, Pam Kasey & Devin Lacy
PHOTOGRAPHED BY Nikki Bowman Mills & Carla Witt Ford

The Southern Coalfields are experiencing a renaissance, with the booming growth of the Hatfield–McCoy Trails. But don’t think that you need to be behind the wheel of a UTV to fall in love with this region. This standout road trip winds through five very unique counties where country roads give way to jaw-dropping mountain views and historic small towns.

LOGAN COUNTY

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No visit to Logan is complete without a stop at Chief Logan State Park—a 4,000-acre retreat with scenic trails, picnic areas, a museum, and even an elk viewing tower. The Museum in the Park gives a great introduction to the region’s culture and natural history. Make sure you stop in downtown Logan and visit the local shops.

DINE & DRINK

It’s tough to choose between Morrisons Drive In and Parkway Drive-In, two local Logan institutions, so grab a hot dog at one and a burger at the other. The laid-back vibe, killer burgers, and cold beer at Broken Axle in Lyburn are a favorite for locals and trail riders alike. In the mood for steak? Head to 317 The Steak House in downtown Logan.

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MINGO COUNTY

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In Williamson, you must visit the Coal House, built entirely of coal. It’s kitschy, but wonderfully so. You’ve heard of the King Coal Highway, but have you ever driven it? As you head to Matewan, a National Historic District, you will. A large part of it is built on former surface mine land, and that means it is as flat as flat can be—a rarity in these parts. You’ll drop down into Matewan, cradled on the banks of the Tug River. It has a Wild West feel and a past to match. This is the site of the infamous Matewan Massacre, a dramatic labor uprising in 1920. Visit the Matewan Depot and West Virginia Mine Wars Museum (a must) to learn about the Hatfield and McCoy feud, union struggles, Baldwin–Felts agents, and the infamous Sid Hatfield, the town’s sheriff, whose murder served as one of the sparks for the Battle of Blair Mountain. As you walk the town, it’s as if you can hear the bullets flying by.

DINE & DRINK

For the best barbeque, head to Wingo’s Grill in Matewan, and for burgers and wings stop at Starters Sports Bar & Grill in Williamson.

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MCDOWELL COUNTY

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Welch is the historic seat of McDowell County. At its peak when coal was king, Welch was a bustling hub of prosperity. Visit the McDowell County Courthouse, where Sid Hatfield was gunned down on the courthouse steps, and stroll downtown to admire faded murals that harken back to more prosperous days. You can ride the Hatfield–McCoy Trails, or head south of town to hike in Panther State Forest. Or fish in Berwind Lake Wildlife Management Area. Just 25 minutes south of Welch lies Coalwood, the hometown of the “Rocket Boys,” made famous by October Sky.

DINE & DRINK

For a classic drive-in experience and great photo op, visit Sterling Drive-In, located on the outskirts of Welch.

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WYOMING COUNTY

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Take a trek through Pineville and visit Castle Rock, a 165-foot sandstone cliff right in the middle of town. R. D. Bailey Lake contains 17 miles of shoreline and excellent fishing. In Oceana, Clearfork Valley Golf Club welcomes those who travel with clubs in their trunk. Make sure you visit Twin Falls Resort State Park, a treasure tucked into the rugged hills. Take a hike to the park’s namesake waterfalls, explore the restored Pioneer Farm, or just relax in nature’s quiet embrace. Stay the night and enjoy a meal at the lodge.

DINE & DRINK

Don’t ask questions, just order the Turkey Salad Sub at Pinnacle Drive Inn in Pineville. For fantastic barbeque, try Rebel’s Smokehouse, or head to Second Street Station for diner fare in Mullens. For delicious ribeye or rainbow trout, eat at Twin Falls Resort State Park restaurant.

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MERCER COUNTY

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Bramwell, nicknamed the “Town of Millionaires,” was once home to more wealth per capita than anywhere in the United States. This charming town with cobblestone streets and stately Victorian mansions built by coal tycoons is a must-visit. Stop at the Bramwell Depot and Train Museum, take a historic walking tour, and enjoy the town’s charming shops. Next head to Pinnacle Rock State Park, only 15 minutes from Bramwell. It’s a dramatic sandstone formation with stunning views from the observation deck. Beautiful Bluefield got its name for a reason. Don’t leave without visiting Gary Bowling’s House of Art—you’ll think you stepped into Tribeca. Make sure you visit Princeton’s revitalized and thriving artsy downtown. Mercer Street is lined with stunning murals, quirky shops, coffee spots, and local art galleries.

DINE & DRINK

In Princeton, enjoy an elevated fried bologna sandwich at Jimmie’s Restaurant—thick-cut, fried to perfection, stacked with cheese, pickles, and mustard on white bread—or opt for fried green tomatoes topped with pimento cheese and hot pepper bacon jam at The RailYard in Bluefield. Set inside an old bank building, The Vault Downtown in Bluefield still holds onto that air of something grand, but these days, instead of money, it deals in steaks and seafood. In historic Bramwell, Bramwell Soda Fountain and Corner Shop is an old-fashioned soda fountain where the milkshakes will call your name.

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