In a steamer set over boiling water, steam the potatoes, covered partially, for 30 to 40 minutes or until tender. Let potatoes cool, peel, and cut into 1⁄3-inch cubes.

In a heavy skillet, cook the bacon over moderate heat, stirring until crisp. Transfer it with a slotted spoon to a bowl and pour off all but 3 tablespoons of the fat from the skillet.

In the remaining fat cook the ramps, stirring until they are softened. Add the potatoes, bacon, and salt and pepper. Cook the mixture, stirring, for 3 minutes or until the potatoes are lightly golden. Keep the filling warm, covered.

In a bowl, beat the eggs lightly with 3 tablespoons cold water, the Tabasco, and salt to taste. Heat an omelet pan or a non-stick skillet about 51⁄2 inches across the bottom over moderately high heat until hot. Add 1 tablespoon butter, swirling across the bottom until the foam subsides.

Add one quarter of the egg mixture and cook omelet, stirring the top layer with the back of a fork and shaking the pan until it is barely set.

Remove pan from heat, spoon one quarter of the filling across the center of the omelet, and loosen the edge of the omelet with a rubber spatula, shaking the pan.

Fold the top third of the omelet over the filling, fold the bottom third over the middle, and, tilting the pan away from you, slide the omelet to the bottom pan.

Invert the omelet onto an ovenproof serving plate and keep it warm in a preheated 200° oven.

Make 3 more omelets with the remaining egg mixture, filling, and butter in the same manner.

Blot up any liquid that has seeped from the omelets with a paper towel.